Deadly serious

Here's my last post: the lobby of Hotel St James. For it's price and location it was an amazing bargain and had very nice staff, especially the short, chatty, Brooklyner (is that what their called?) who provided plenty of authentic New York humour.

Wow, we're back in the UK. I could say it's gone fast but I always like to pack so much into a holiday, hence the pain and fatigue, that it seems like we've been away for months. The holiday wasn't as well structured as our Scandinavian trip and a hell of a lot more hectic despite only being in one city but it's been a great trip. I think we got almost everything done we'd planned and the weather was very kind. It was nowhere near as hot and humid as we'd feared and the days it did rain didn't spoil our plans. Back in Heathrow the security checks were fast owing largely to us being home nationals. Nevertheless the time from stepping off the plane to stepping onto the underground train was very quick. It's nice to be home in familiar territory.

It seemed to take hours waiting on the runway to take off. After boarding before 6pm we only took off at 7.30pm. The journey wasn't as easy as the outgoing flight probably because we were tired, less excited and we were losing a night's sleep which made for loads of discomfort as we did try to get some rest. I watched a single film, ate their supper and slept for about 1 hour but probably tried for about 3. The 7 hours or so did seem to go quite quickly. Obviously it was sad to leave but we've been so busy we haven't had time to think about it, except for the spectacular sunset and views over Manhattan as we were taking off.

Because we came in at the wrong terminal things got a little complicated. We were still able to check in our bags at terminal 4 and also go through security but we were then taken by bus to terminal 3. We were the only ones doing it so had a whole bus, driver and assistant to take us over and guide us through the terminal. We felt like VIPs. In fact the whole airport seemed overmanned. There were at least 2 airport staff in every direction and often 3 or 4 standing in groups chatting. I wonder how they can afford it with their low tax rates. But maybe the airport with obvious security concerns gets a blank cheque. We eventually got to our gate and despite leaving so much time we only had 15 minutes before boarding. Good job we left early.

We planned to get a bus to the airport so we went to Grand Central to get a ticket and check out where we needed to go. We also picked up some food for the journey and our last pink lemonade that we'd had here most days. For our last day it had cooled a bit which was handy given how much of a rush the last minutes always are. The hotel had been kind enough to let us keep the room until 1.30pm which made planning easier.

We took our last subway ride returning from Grand Central back to Times Square and our hotel. The crowds were as intense as ever and I'm glad we never spent so much time in the square and only ever passed through to somewhere else. The subway has been so convenient and at $29 each for a weekly travelcard it's been very good value. Stations are never far away and once you figure out the lines that are all indicated by a single digit or single letter, just as the roads are named by numbers, it begins to make sense. Signposting around the platforms are plentiful so it's difficult to get lost completely. It's only the heat on the platforms that are a pain.

We got to the bus stop early deciding to walk the 3 or 4 blocks instead of a cab which would have been a hassle and I was literally down to my last $10. I was grateful for the cooler weather. We waited in a queue for about 20 minutes before our bus arrived and took us the 40 minutes to JFK. It was fortunately the driver told us which terminal we needed (out of seven) as I'd forgotten to check. It was a ticketless flight so I had no paperwork to remind me. Unfortunately our flight, although listed as KLM, was actually with Delta so we ended up at the wrong terminal anyway.

We slept in late and took our time getting ready. Our flight isn't leaving until 6.45pm so we didn't need to leave the city until after 2pm. We had our last breakfast at Fluffy's and went shopping for postcards, stamps and an I Love NY t-shirt for Katarina.

Despite buying the cheapest seats which were in the very last row at the back we were lucky to be located right in the centre of the theatre with a fantastic view. It was only a small theatre so the distance wasn't bad. Given the scale of the puppets and the video projections during the performance I think seats up in the circle were better than premium seats down below. Katarina had been excited all week to see the performance, our only Broadway show, and it didn't fail to deliver. The puppets were outstanding and the people that have to hold the life-size models almost become like ghosts as they lift the horses, turn the heads and shake the tails. The English accents of the actors were poor but didn't get in the way. It was a shame many in the audience, including those sitting next to Katarina, seemed to think we were in a cheap cinema and had to rustle packets of sweets and chew loudly but the noise on stage frequently drowned them out. We were impressed and it made a ve...

Staying in a hotel on Times Square can be a pain with all the tourists making it slow to walk the short distance from the subway but it makes the whole of New York accessible from a single subway ride without the need for change. So, we took the short ride uptown to the Lincoln Centre to collect our tickets to War Horse. We were very early to reduce the possibility of anything ruining our last evening so sat in the cafe among a crowd of New York septegenarians waiting for the Opera. The accents were all old time Hollywood (possibly even Woody Allen) and not the voices we hear generally on the streets. One of them asks if the seats by us are free so we nod and also clear our drinks from his side of the table. The man responds with a reply that seemed so in character, "I only need the seat, not the whole table". I laughed.

Outside the theatre is a huge fountain that is lit up in the darkness creating a stunning backdrop for photos which the many theatregoers were exploiting. We hung around for about 45 minutes taking our own share of pictures. Although it was only a simple subway ride back to the hotel it was midnight and I thought we'd do our first taxi ride of the holiday - it had been on our list of must-do things. We were only 20 streets away but it took quite a while to make the journey through the traffic so I wonder why New Yorkers would bother but for us it was for purely for fun. Back at the hotel I started to pack while Katarina got to sleep. Our last night had come to an end.

We took the subway again crosstown back to the hotel, using the Grand Central - Times Square shuttle which just goes back and forth between these single stops. Our last night was going to be a late one so we took an hour out to rest and for me to rest my eyes.

After MoMA we took the subway downtown to visit the Strand Bookstore a hugely popular and very large discount bookstore not far from where we were in East Village the other day but had missed. I found a couple of bargains and then we left as Katarina was feeling a lot of pain again. For a very late lunch we took the subway back uptown to our second favourite eatery, the Grand Central food hall, where we had Chinese again and this photo doesn't do justice to the scale of what you get for your money.

After exploring all the floor including the less interesting contemporary galleries we did the shop, which was the best of all the museums with gadgets of every kind. We must have been there 30 minutes choosing a few souvenirs for our last day. Katarina was feeling tired but we'd managed to complete almost our whole itinerary and all the museums.

On the way back we stopped at the halfway point and took some photos among the crowds that took the opportunity for photos and also to shelter from the sun under the bridge's pillars. A man was selling ice cold bottled water for $1 so we stocked up and headed back. In my own style we got a little lost returning because of the extensive diversions but eventually discovered we were going the right way all along cycling around the very southern tip of Manhattan with the Statue of Liberty in the distance. We dropped off the bikes and rushed to the subway to get some of the air conditioning in the trains.

We first took the subway to Grand Central for two big hotdogs in their food court and then continued all the way uptown to 86th street to visit the Guggenheim Museum. It wasn't really for the art on show that we came but to see the architecture and walk the spiral path that rises to the top. We took photos but sadly we were politely stopped when we approached the level where the gallery began. Katarina's feet were already starting to ache so I took any opportunity to lighten the mood. Surprisingly it was Kandinsky that did the trick and hanging our heads over the wall for a photograph or two.

We didn't having anything early today so we slept in late and didn't leave the hotel until 9.30am. We tried breakfast in the cafe next door to the hotel but they were a grumpy bunch so didn't leave a tip and won't be returning. We took the subway down to Battery Park where I'd planned to hire bikes and cross the Brooklyn Bridge on wheels hoping it would save Katrina's feet. It started well but we soon realised we'd have to cross downtown Manhattan in the streets competing with busy traffic. Although there's a cycle path all around New York there are big diversions downtown because of the World Trade Centre construction. However the drivers were patient with us as we got used to our new bicycles. It turned out to be quite a long journey before we even reached the start of the bridge.

We had breakfast again at our favourite Fluffy's cafe where it was packed probably for a the weekend rush. From there it was about 10 minutes on foot to MoMA where we got our tickets and waited 20 minutes for them to open the galleries. Unlike the pleasant surprise yesterday, when we found the modern art collection in the Met, today we had an idea of what we'd meet in here. It was on the fifth floor that the big names began with more Van Gogh, Picasso, Matisse, Dali, Gaugin, etc, etc. Again it's difficult not to get swept up by the celebrity and take snaps of everything. I wonder how much this is all worth and am surprised how close you can get to paintings that are worth millions each. I suppose the American legal system will ensure you pay up if you slip up.

Although storms were due later it started out very clear and the hottest day so far which didn't help with the lack of shelter as we rode the bridge. Katarina looks quite relaxed in this photo but she was hating the cycling in such heat. I never realised how strenuous it would be and thought it would be an efficient and relaxing way of crossing. We made it past halfway but stopped short of Brooklyn as the bridge is so long and there would be quite a gradient cycling back.

We had breakfast again at our favourite Fluffy's cafe where it was packed probably for a the weekend rush. From there it was about 10 minutes on foot to MoMA where we got our tickets and waited 20 minutes for them to open the galleries. Unlike the pleasant surprise yesterday, when we found the modern art collection in the Met, today we had an idea of what we'd meet in here. It was on the fifth floor that the big names began with more Van Gogh, Picasso, Matisse, Dali, Gaugin, etc, etc. Again it's difficult not to get swept up by the celebrity and take snaps of everything. I wonder how much this is all worth and am surprised how close you can get to paintings that are worth millions each. I suppose the American legal system will ensure you pay up if you slip up.

And there's another one. It's like walking through a modern art catalogue.

And secretly this is why I came to New York, to come face to face with Frida Kahlo, my art double. Unfortunately they only had two on display but this one was good enough. You don't really get much time to quietly contemplate any of the work because others will push their cameras or themselves into view. But then I'm doing the same. Overall it's nice to see so much in one gallery because you get to see their context in the history of art.

In true Warholian tradition we photograph his work and distribute it. What would he have made of the Internet?

We had breakfast again at our favourite Fluffy's cafe where it was packed probably for a the weekend rush. From there it was about 10 minutes on foot to MoMA where we got our tickets and waited 20 minutes for them to open the galleries. Unlike the pleasant surprise yesterday, when we found the modern art collection in the Met, today we had an idea of what we'd meet in here. It was on the fifth floor that the big names began with more Van Gogh, Picasso, Matisse, Dali, Gaugin, etc, etc. Again it's difficult not to get swept up by the celebrity and take snaps of everything. I wonder how much this is all worth and am surprised how close you can get to paintings that are worth millions each. I suppose the American legal system will ensure you pay up if you slip up.

Dali inspired this photo.

The start of our last full day is due to bring rain all morning but it's not so bad today as we plan to be inside most of the day. It might clear a little later when we could get some last snaps. We're taking our time getting out as New York has strange opening hours so that major attractions open after 10am and in this case with MoMA it doesn't open intil10.30am.

I knew the day wouldn't last much longer because we were both getting tired so we immediately headed six streets south to the Metropolitan Museum of Art which stunned me with its scale. These Americans certainty knew how to take on those Victorians for scale. Again I tried all I could to lighten the mood because Katarina was in pain. I promised we'd only visit the modern art galleries and the shop.

On the way back we stopped at the halfway point and took some photos among the crowds that took the opportunity for photos and also to shelter from the sun under the bridge's pillars. A man was selling ice cold bottled water for $1 so we stocked up and headed back. In my own style we got a little lost returning because of the extensive diversions but eventually discovered we were going the right way all along cycling around the very southern tip of Manhattan with the Statue of Liberty in the distance. We dropped off bikes and rushed to the subway to get some of the air conditioning in the trains.

We first took the subway to Grand Central for two big hotdogs in their food court and then continued all the way uptown to 86th street to visit the Guggenheim Museum. It wasn't really for the art on show that we came but to see the architecture and walk the spiral path that rises to the top. We took photos but sadly we were politely stopped when we approached the level where the art began. Katarina's feet were already starting to ache so I took any opportunity to lighten the mood. Surprisingly it was Kandinsky that did the trick and hanging our heads over the wall for a photograph or two.

Although storms were due later it started out very clear and the hottest day so far which didn't help with the lack of shelter as we rode the bridge. Katarina looks quite relaxed in this photo but she was hating the cycling in such heat. I never realised how strenuous it would be and thought it would be an efficient and relaxing way of crossing. We made it past halfway but stopped short of Brooklyn as the bridge is so long and there would be quite a gradient cycling back.

Despite our fatigue and pain, all was forgotten when Katarina got sight of the Monets, Matisses and Van Goghs. The latter was surrounded by a crowd of enthisuastic tourists a little reminiscent of the Mona Lisa. I could help get swept up by the celebrity of these artists. All things intellectual go out the window and you just feel like you are in the presence of royalty whether you like it or not and when you see Van Gogh's paintings you can't help but like them. However we'd reached breaking point and even though our guidebook had described the Met's modern art collection as not worth seeing, it filled many rooms and almost crippled our feet.

We didn't having anything early today so we slept in late and didn't leave the hotel until 9.30am. We tried breakfast in the cafe next door to the hotel but they were a grumpy bunch so didn't leave a tip and won't be returning. We took the subway down to Battery Park where I'd planned to hire bikes and cross the Brooklyn Bridge on wheels hoping it would save Katrina's feet. It started well but we soon realised we'd have to cross downtown Manhattan in the streets competing with busy traffic. Although there's a cycle path all around New York there are big diversions downtown because of the World Trade Centre construction. However the drivers were patient with us as we got used to our new bicycles. It turned out to be quite a long journey before we even reached the start of the bridge.

Although storms were due later it started out very clear and the hottest day so far which didn't help with the lack of shelter as we rode the bridge. Katarina looks quite relaxed in this photo but she was hating the cycling in such heat. I never realised how strenuous it would be and thought it would be an efficient and relaxing way of crossing. We made it past halfway but stopped short of Brooklyn as the bridge is so long and there would be quite a gradient cycling back.

We didn't having anything early today so we slept in late and didn't leave the hotel until 9.30am. We tried breakfast in the cafe next door to the hotel but they were a grumpy bunch so didn't leave a tip and won't be returning. We took the subway down to Battery Park where I'd planned to hire bikes and cross the Brooklyn Bridge on wheels hoping it would save Katrina's feet. It started well but we soon realised we'd have to cross downtown Manhattan in the streets competing with busy traffic. Although there's a cycle path all around New York there are big diversions downtown because of the World Trade Centre construction. However the drivers were patient with us as we got used to our new bicycles. It turned out to be quite a long journey before we even reached the start of the bridge.

I'd hoped to squeeze in the Museum of Modern Art as well today and although we had time we didn't have the energy so we stopped rushing and took 5 minutes to see the roof terrace on the Met. We then sat inside for 30 minutes while I wrote up today's blog posts. Finally we took the train home via a falafel bar and then Starbucks where I sent my emails. Tomorrow was always planned to be a spare day to do those things we didn't have time for so looks like it'll be MOMA, some book stores and then War Horse on Broadway for our last evening. It might be a late night so might not be able to send our last posts before we get back. I've also noticed because my phone sends all emails in one go once I finally get a connection, they end up in a random order. Apologies for the confusion.

While on the boat we had got chatting to some writer who was putting together a review of a number of these tour boats. When we left the boat she helped us find our way through the quiet midnight streets around downtown and to the subway. Fortunately the platforms were not deserted and the train driver repeatedly reminded passengers that the police were patrolling and eventually they did pass through our car. At Times Square we walked home as fast as we could through the busy crowds to get back and get some sleep. It's been a long but successful day.

We took the subway back but despite the crowds we had no trouble getting a seat even if it was right next to a gangster who was determined to keep his legs open as wide as possible. We avoided changing trains with the platforms like furnaces so instead walked from 59th street down to Grand Central on 42nd. Katarina was happy to walk as we'd already been sitting a lot of the day. The weather continued to be mostly blue skies and the heat reasonable. We had supper in the food hall then I had to return to the hotel to get out my contacts and give my eyes a rest before we headed back out.

Inside the stadium we couldn't help buy some memorabilia. I got a baseball and Katarina got a cap. Everyone was friendly so finding our seats on the fourth level was easy, passing by numerous stalls selling hugely overpriced food and drink. Our seats were right in the middle of the isle but again it was all easy. An elderly couple behind, the husband with one of those high-pitched scratchy accents, kindly offered to take a photo of us. We settled down with our supply of bottled water and then stood for the national anthem.

Our last excursion of the day was to Battery Park and take a sail boat around the Statue of Liberty. I didn't quite realise how long it was take to get the subway and then navigate the streets around the World Trade Centre area with all the continuous building work so we had to run at the end to make it on time for 10pm. We arrived hot and sweaty and even drew the concern of a police woman who wondered why we were running in the heat. She had a real look of concern on her face like we were running from gunmen. She pointed out the way to go and we ran off. By the boat we cooled off with the help of a small battery fan we'd been carrying all week and the boat set out first by engine and then they hoisted the sails for a completely silent trip around the statue. It was surely the best way of seeing it and the Manhattan skyline all lit up. Sadly I forgot to get a photo on my phone while we were out but I might update the blog another time. The sail lasted 90 minutes and it provided...

We started day five walking to the NBC studios where we attended a tour together with about 30 other people. There was obviously a lot that didn't mean too much since we don't watch the channel but it was still fascinating to see inside the studios and not least the Saturday Night Live studio which did mean something to me. One of the news studios they described as a hot studio which can be ready to film in 45 seconds. The tour guides were very professional and ensured everything went very smoothly including a brief fake news report presented by a couple of volunteers from the tour. We then had a late breakfast at Fluffy's again.

The game itself was confusing so it took a while after reading up some rules, which really I should have done before we arrived, before it all fell into place. It started better for the Rangers and then there were four innings with players called out one after the other and not a single run. Eventually the Yankees got back in it and the crowd got excited. The video screens were unashamedly partisan with celebrations only for the Yankees and never if the Rangers do well. However after the sixth innings, out of nine, it all went in the Rangers' favour and some fans began to leave before the end. It was sad we saw the Yankees lose but it was a worthwhile cultural experience nonetheless. I couldn't believe how fast 4 hours went.

After breakfast we took our first subway journey outside Manhattan to the Bronx to see a baseball game with the New York Yankees. Today was the one day we needed clear skies and we got it. I still didn't find the heat oppressive except in the subway where it's about 100 degrees until you get on the air-conditioned trains. There were plenty of fans heading the same way with their Yankees shirts so we just followed them. There were also a few Texas Rangers fans, who the Yankees were playing, but we ignored them as was protocol. The train was an express route so it was only a few stops before we arrived directly outside the stadium.

The rain started to come down quite heavy and we saw umbrellas for the first time in New York. They appeared everywhere so people were clearly prepared. It's not just the British who know their rain. However with it being so warm, the rain was warm and you hardly felt it on your skin and clothes where it evaporated very quickly so, despite carrying an umbrella ourselves, we tried at first to just run between the shops.

Halfway down our Fifth Avenue adventure we came upon the New York Public Library building which seems to be about as massive as the British Museum. We explored the main entrance hall that could probably house a cathedral and, surprisingly, a few of the reading rooms. I've no idea how New Yorkers using this place to study put up with the crowds of tourists, like us, spilling through doorways with their cameras. But who can blame then when one of the reading rooms has a clear view of the Empire State Building through one of its windows.

We then visited the Mood fabric store in the so called Fashion district of Manhattan. This store features in the reality show Project Catwalk and was one of our must see visits. The store was accessed off the street through an arcade where an old-fashioned elevator operator took us up in a manual lift. It was like we were entering some secret workshop. The staff were very friendly and we spent a while exploring the isles and isles of fabric of every style imaginable. It's a designer's paradise.

Our last shopping trip of the day was to B&H photo, a camera and electronics store that stretches the length of one block and is advertised everywhere in Manhattan. I came to browse and bought myself a little monopod. All the staff are Chasidic Jews and very enthusiastic about their products. It seems like a hugely successful business in New York. However Katarina's feet reached breaking point and she was struggling to hide the pain. Unfortunately we left our umbrella in Mood so we had to run back to the subway.

We began our shopping trip taking the subway to Fifth Avenue at 60th Street, the very start of Central Park. Unfortunately it was another day of intermittent rain but the shops would provide plenty of shelter. We slowly made our way down Fifth Avenue grateful that the overcast sky meant less sun beating down on us although shade is never far away in Manhattan. We skipped most of the big intimidating names and Katarina visited all the shops she knew and a few new ones. She was clearly enjoying it and the excitement was numbing any pain in her feet. Even I felt less tired just watching her.

Once we'd turned the corner at 34 Street, the rain grew more severe so we took a break and sheltered in Starbucks where we shared a huge Mocha Frappacino. Katarina read and I took the opportunity to catch up with emails while I had a Wi-Fi connection.

Here's how one New Yorker dealt with the rain as we passed through the Fashion district.

It's the halfway point of our holiday and the day is dedicated to shopping. We start the day where we finished yesterday at Fluffy's Cafe where Katarina had waffles and I had bacon and eggs and a whole load more on the side. I figured a decent breakfast should give us more energy. I still don't have an Internet connection so rely on the old fashioned technique of asking people for information. It's not as fast but does the job. Unfortunately we learnt it was to be another day with rain. Hopefully the shops will provide shelter.